Historical fabric names

Fabric types that have been used 19th century and back.

Swedish words in parentheses.

 

(Amens– Tuppatyg)- - A wool damast with bird pattern, mostly in red. Was produced in England and spread to Sweden through Norway. Used in the peasant clothing.

(Atlassiden)Silk satin, duchess silk.

(Barkan)- Worsted wool moire. Pressed to make a weavy pattern. Hard, rigid and sharp to the touch.

(Batik)– Printed cotton fabric, originally from Indonesia. In modern time the word batik is in Sweden mostly know as tie dye.

Bobbinet- Bobin lace tulle fabric.

Bombazin(Bombasin/bomersin/bombasäng) - Ribbed silk fabric. Sometimes wool or cotton mix. Various explanations in the sources. Can be different fabrics depending on what country they come from, like Dutch, English or Hamburgian bombasin.

Buckram- Glued linen canvas. The fabric was covered in rubber to make it stiff for stays and hats. Modern buckram can be more of a syntetic net, sometimes with adhesive.

Barathea- Wool twill with very tight weave. Can also be of cotton or silk mix.

Barkcloth(Barkduk)- Fabric made from inner bark. Mostly common in Asia, Africa, and the Pacific.

Batiste- Thin fine cotton fabric.

Birds eye(Gåsöga)- Twill pattern (weaving type) where the pattern makes rombs. looks similar to diamond twill but the later patern is one step shifted forwartd so the the rombs look like diamonds.

(Blaggarn)- A heavy rough type of linen with blotches of linen or hemp. Often used in the lower part of a Swedish peasant chemise in the 17th-19thg century, to save the finer linen for the upper part.

(Buldan)- Sailcloth, heavy canvas.

Burlap(Säckväv)- Coarse and sparse jute fabric.

Broadcloth- Felted wool fabric with smooth surface. Medium to heavy weight.

Brocade (Brokad)- Patterned (mostly) silk fabric with one right side. Double sided = damask.

Calamanco- - Shiny wool fabric from Norwich, often striped.

Calico– Oblekt domestik/lakansväv som används till toiler (provplagg) bla. Kan också syfta på tryckt bomullstyg. I usa kan detta tyg kallas för muslin som annars är ett tunt genomskinligt bomullstyg.

Cambic, (kambrink)- Batiste. A thin fine cotton fabric.

Canvas– grovt bomulls- eller linnetyg.

Camlet/camlot(kamlott)- Shiny worsted tabby wool fabric. Originally with camel wool.

(Carmosin)– satin

Cashmere- Goat wool. Very soft.

Chambray- Cotton fabric with blue or gray weft.

Challis- silk or cotton crepe. Norwich- matte, french- glossy.

Cheesecloth-Thin sparse cotton fabric. Used for cheese but also starched as lining in late 19th century collars.

Chiffon(Chiffong)– tunnt genomskinligt och mjukt sidentyg.

Chintz/zintzPrinted and glazed cotton or linen fabric. Originally from India and was imported for home textiles. later it became popular for cloithing in the 18th century.

Corduroy(Manchestertyg)- Tightly woven cotton velvet with cut stripes.

Cotton duck- - Strong tightly woven cotton fabric. Heavier than regular lawn. Can somtimes have double threds in the warp. Duch tape was a cotton tape that today is known as the silver colored tape used for repairs.

Coutil/ticking- Strong tightly woven cotton fabric. Was used for corsets in the 19th century and also things like mattresses to hold theh dune inside, as its to tightly woven.

Cretonne- från början ett starkt vitt halvlinne, det kunde även vara tryckta mönster på. Idag syftar man oftast på lakansväv.

Damask(damast)– mönstrat dubbesidigt tyg. Inverterat mönster på baksidan. Kan vara enfärgat eller flerfärgat.

Diamond twill(Diamantkypert)– - Twill weave where the pattern looks like diamond shapes. Similar to goose eye, but broken pattern.

Diasper/dyasyn- Similar to lampas silk. Brocade like fabric but with double warp.

Domestik-Plain cotton fabric. Historicly it was often a vaxed glossy fabric but today its a plain cotton used for upholstery.

Duchess- Glossy smooth silk fabric.

Felt– filtat/valkat tyg. Idag är det oftast ett tyg som inte är vävt utan bara valkade fibrer.

Flanel– ruggat bomullstyg eller ylletyg

Fustian– bomullstyg eller halvlinne med uppklippt lugg alt linne med ullinslag (stelt tyg).

Gabardine- Fine tightly woven twill cotton or wool.

(Gardintyg)– syftade på tunna bomullstyger med genombrutna mönster

Gauze- Sparsly woven fabric like cotton or silk.

Gingham- A type of check pattern. Usually cotton fabric.

Grossgrain- Ribbed tabby weave. A heavier weft makes the ribbs. Usually silk fabric.

(Gurktyg)- a Swedish slang for a type fabric with paisley pattern.

Habotai- Thin sheer but glossy silk fabric.

Haircloth, haircanvas(Hårcanvas)– - Linen warp with weft in horse hair or wool. Used as a tailoring canvas to stiffen garments in the collar and opening/shoulders.

(Cotton/linen mix)- Linen warp with cotton weft or vice versa.

(Halvsiden)- Silk/wool or silk/cotton.

(Halvylle)- Linen warp with wool weft.

Hemp- Linen like fabric.

Hessian/burlap(Juteväv)– - Coarse and sparse jute fabric. canvas, ofta i jute.

Herringbone(twill)(Fiskbenskypert)- Twill weave where the pattern looks like fishbone.

(Kalmink)- Shiny wool fabric from Norwich, often striped.

(Kammarduk)- Batist. Thin cotton fabric.

(Kambrink)- Cambrinc. Thin cotton batist.

(Kamlott)- Shiny worsted tabby wool fabric. Originally with camel wool.

(Kamris)– damastvävd bomullsväv, blommigt tex. (Finns ofta på loppisar i schweitz)

(Chintz)Swedish word for chintz. Printed cotton or linen fabric. In sweden mostly red, blue and white ones.

(Broadcloth (tabby wool))-Broadcloth. Fine smooth felted wool fabric, usually with brushed and cut nap. Can be thin, medium or heavy weight.

Lampas- A type of silk brocade but with double warp.

Lappet weaving- Patterned cotton fabrics in white where the threads are "picked up" to make a pattern. Usually from Scotland.

Lawn- Fine cotton fabric.

Linen- Similar to hemp fabric. Can be in tabby or any twill weave. Mostly used for undergarment like shirts and chemises.

Linon(Linong)- Very thin linen fabric. Later is was refering to a thin cotton fabric.

Loden- Heavy felted wool fabric with brushed nap.

Longcloth- Cotton fabric that was woven in long pieces. Used for underwear.

(Lärft)- Swedish word for plain cotton or linen fabric.

Madapollam- Batist. Thin cotton fabric.

Madras-Thin cotton fabric.

Melton- Heavy felted wool fabric. Vadmal in Swedish.

Mesh- Net fabric, Usually silk. Also see Bobinet.

Moleskin/(Mollskin)– - Bruched tightly woven cotton fabric. Used for coats and pants in the 19th century. In Sweden used for breeches..

Muslin- tunt genomskinligt bomullstyg.

Nainsook- - Thin soft type of cotton muslin.

Nankeen- - Cotton fabric made from a very yellow type of cotton. Later it was made from regular cotton and dyed yellow.

Nettle cloth(Nässelduk/nättelduk)– - Fabric made from nettle fibers. Similar to linen. Used for underwear.

Oilskin (Oljeduk)– - Cotton fabric that is impregnated with linseed oil to be waterproof. Used mostly for coats and camping gear.

Organza- - Thin sheer but stiff silk fabric.

Osnaburg- - Coarse unbleashed cotton fabric. Sometimes cotton/linen.

(Ostduk)– -Cheescloth. Thin sparse cotton fabric. Used for cheese but also starched as lining in late 19th century collars.

Oxford- bomullstyg som är vävd så att det ser ut som prickar i väven.

Paisley- droppliknande mönster från india.

Percale- tätvävt bomullstyg. Ofta använt till överkast.

Pongee- sidentyg med ojämn tråd i inslaget.

Poplin- - Stiff but thin cotton fabric.

(Rask)– glansigt kalenderad tunn yllekypert

Samite– tjockt mönstrat kypertvävt sidentyg som användes under vikingatid och medeltid.

Satin– fin kypertväv, oftast silke. Ger väldigt glansig yta. Kan både vara enkelsidig och dubbelsidig.

(Silk)- Silk. Fabric made from the silk worm fiber.

Silk taffeta(Silk taffeta)- Stiff silk fabric.

(Schagg)– Ylletyg med lugg. En form av yllesammet.

Seersucker-Tunnt bomullstyg som vävs med en “våfflad” effekt. Ofta randig.

Serge/sars– tätvävt kyperttyg.

(Sockerduk)- Batist. Thin cotton fabric.

(Stryväv)- Blaggarn (swedish) a coarse linen fabric.

(Taborett)- Patterned brocade wool fabrics from Norwich.

Taffeta- Stiff silk fabric.

Tartan- Checked wool tweed fabric from Scotland.

Ticking– tätvät bomulls- eller linnetyg. Används för dynor och kuddar bla.

Toile- Test garment, but in some times it is used for printed cottons french motifs.

tryckta bomullstyger.

Tulle(Tyll)- net or mesh fabric. Originally from the French town Tulle. The tulle machine is invented 1810.

Tweed- Brittish coarse wool twill fabric. Often with melange wool.

Twill- Weaving type that can make diagonal lines or different types of patterns.

(Melton)– hemvävt tjockt valkat ylletyg.

Velour– modern syntetisk sammet som oftast är stretchig.

Velvet (Silk velvet)- Cotton or silk fabric with rased nap that gives a deep colour. It can have cut out patterns in the nap.

(Verken)- Linen warp with wool weft that makes a 2 colored look.

Voile- Thin sheer cotton fabric that is slightly more stiff than muslin.

Whipcord-starkt kamgarnstyg i bomull eller ull med hårt tvinnat tråd.

Zephyr cloth– tunt bomullstyg, oftast i tuskaft.

Zephyr yarn- ett fluffigt typ av broderigarn som blev populärt i sverige på 1800-talet.

(Wool damask)- Wool damast. In sweden the fabrics from Norwich spread among the peasants in the 18-19th century aswell as the homemade dupes.

(Yllemuslin)- Wool muslin. A thin sheer fabric. Sometimes also with a print on or woven print.